Showing posts with label designing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label designing. Show all posts

7.06.2014

a year in review (what's good and what could have been better...)



Wow. A year already? Time just flies... But it's been a good year!

First off, we have absolutely no regrets on building this house. It's truly been wonderful. It's well designed, gorgeous, and incredibly comfy. I think my favorite part of the house is the windows. I love looking in any direction and seeing outside, especially the clerestory windows that show green trees and blue skies as well as the window wall in the living room. The cat would agree. The bride's favorite bit is the kitchen, with it's openness, ample storage, and mucho workspace. But choosing the favorite part of the house is like choosing your favorite child: There are so many favorites that there ain't just one.

Having said that, we do have some regrets and some things we would have done differently if we had to do it all over again. We list them here so perhaps someone can learn from them (and perhaps us as well at some point; as a friend's builder once said "You have to build at least two houses so you can benefit from what you learned building the first one!").

In the grand scheme of things, our regrets are minor compared to the glory of the good. But they are, indeed, learning moments.


what happened to our foam?

We really wanted a layer of foam around the outside of the house to minimize thermal bridging via the two by sixes. Spray foam is great, but the wood between the foam is the weak link. To scratch this itch, the architects specified EIFS (exterior insulated finish systems), but the builder balked (EIFS has a bad reputation due to its early misuse). At a meeting to find a resolution, the builder noted that ZIP, the maker of the builder's preferred sheathing, had just come out with a version with foam sandwiched between the boards. Perfect! Except the change didm;t make it into the specs and therefore didn't get installed (and we didn't notice until it was WAY too late to do anything about it).

lesson learned: Make sure changes get reflected in the specs (and everyone is reminded of them). The builder should have made this change, but we should have made sure it made it into the specs before we signed the contract.


thermally broken storefront

The bride (and I, to be frank) adore storefront doors, so we spec'd 'em (and got 'em) for the house. However, amidst wading (drowning?) in all the details of the house, the ones we got are not thermally broken. Not fatal, but a minor "sigh...." moment nonetheless. It could have been worse: the giant window in the living room was originally spec'd to be storefront before the "regular" window company made a successful power play to get that job (and installed thermally-broken windows).

lesson learned: Chase those details...


thermally broken slab

This is an after-the-fact regret since we didn't think about this at all. The thermal losses (and gains) through the edges of the slab are quite noticeable in the sense that you can readily feel the temperature difference of the slab as you approach an edge. In retrospect, this is not surprising: after all, concrete is a thermal mass, but it's amazing how noticeable it is. Not sure how this is dealt with in a slab (a cursory glance about the interwebs show foam on top of the slab with more concrete poured on top as well as insulating the side of the slab) or if it would have even been possible, both sub-wise and budget-wise, but I wish we'd looked into it a wee bit more...

lesson learned: Drinking fewer beers would have killed fewer brain cells thus increasing the odds of thinking about thermally broken slabs.

postnote: Here's an article that discusses how to foam up a slab. But would a sub ever do this?


the one-foot eave

I've often wondered why the architects spec'd a one-foot eave on the east-facing side of the living room. Not that an extra foot would have added that much more shade, but it looks a little stunted to my eyes. And then one day I realized why: We asked for our living and dining rooms to be a foot wider because of circulation concerns. That foot had to come from somewhere (given the length of ceiling support), and so it came from the eastern eave.

Now that we're in the house, I see that we didn't need the extra foot in the living and dining rooms. If we had to choose between the extra foot versus the wider eave, we would have opted for the wider eave.

lesson learned: When asking for a change to the plans, always ask the architects what the implications of those changes are. What are you "losing" when a change is made.



the loss of a suite air trunk

As designed, the house had three awesomely linear air handling trunks: A trunk to the living room, a trunk in the attic space to the upstairs bedrooms, and a trunk down the hallway to the master suite. The straighter and smoother the trunk, the more efficient the air flow. The more efficient the airflow, the less energy is used to heat and cool the house. Unfortunately, that ain't what we got in the end.

The glitch here occurred when the engineer spec'd the trusses and support for the house. In the plans, he spec'd a lot of solid beams across the trunkways, especially the trunk to the master suite. There are three solid-wood beams between the air handling unit and comfort in the suite.

In the end, we had to cut two giant holes in the beam and subsequently support them with steel to get air to the living room. For the master suite, we had to run smallish, snake-ish flex tube above, around, and about to get air to the master suite. Not even close to ideal, and a solution that continues to cause issues with climate control in the house (don't worry: we're comfortable! but the system is very touchy. if we select a temperature too cool or too warm too fast for the master suite, things go awry temp-wise upstairs where all the extra air is dumped).

Who's to blame?

Ultimately no one. The builder builds, so that's not his fault. The HVAC installer inherited the beams, so it's not his fault. The engineer was simply doing his job, so it's not his fault (an ultimately we want a structurally safe house). One could point to the architects, but the budget of the house (and the architectural fees) wasn't at the level of the architects helicopter-momming the project. And I wasn't able to understand the engineering plans enough such that I could have recognized the issue up front. And even if we had recognized the issue, there might not have been an economically attainable solution at that time in the process. This is a double bummer because we were attentive on our side on having simple trunks and did "what we were supposed to do" in terms of getting everyone (architect, builder, HVAC installer) on the same page. Someone needs to add "engineer" to that list as well.

We're seeing how it goes, but we're talking about putting in a mini-split in the master bedroom. Keeping the master suite comfortable is causing the rest of the house, particularly upstairs, to be extra cooled or heated (depending on the season) than it ideally should. This is costing us in energy efficiency.

lesson learned: Have the architects draw out a conceptual HVAC trunk plan and make sure the engineer is aware of the importance of that plan. At the very least, there's a discussion of options before the engineer (and the builder) sets the plans in stone.


hot water circulator

One surprising (and frustrating) thing about the house is how long we seem to have to wait for the hot water to get to a faucet. Being a water conservationist, it kills me to stand there and seemingly wait (and wait) for the water to warm up. I suppose it could have been worse: the architects spec'd the water heater for a central location to the faucets (with the exception of the powder room, but no big deal). What if the water heater was at a more distant location?

Not sure what the solution would have been. Are the supply lines too big? Should they have been smaller? Another option would have been to have had a hot water circulator: a system that, once you press the button, circulates the cool water in the lines back into and through the water heater. Not sure if that would work with an on-demand water heater or if we would have had to get a tanked water heater (or somehow hooked up a tank). Nevertheless, we'd a done it differently knowing what we know now.

lesson learned: Probably would have gone with a tanked system and a recirculator. Didn't realize I would be this affected by it!

some design regrets...

Chalk these all up to hindsight is 20-20. All minor, but I wonder about them from time to time...

If we had to do it all over again, we would have asked for the window and door on the rear entry to have been spec'd to go all the way to the ceiling (and then carried the cypress into the house on the ceiling). The cypress here was a change-order on our part, and I suspect the original plan was this way to save money, but it would have been nice to have this entry be a full mini-me version of the front entry. Don't get me wrong: It's still nice! It's just one of those detaily things that would have been nicer...

Love this detail: The wall carrying out smoothly to the edge of the window on the right. Strikes me as de Stijl, an emphasis on the planes. This detail shows up in other parts of the house, but then there are others where it doesn't, and I'm not sure why...


Window in the office: So close!



Windows's in the stairwell: Sooooo cloooose!!! I think the issue here was transitioning from two by sixes for exterior walls to two by fours for interior walls. 

Master shower: Light (centered), vent (not). Also a victim of the ductwork issues (couldn't center the vent due to the unexpected running of ductwork into the master suite).

Wish this was centered... Because there's a stud right in the middle of the closet door, the doorbell is slightly off-center.

Not sure what happened here...


Love, love, love the pocket doors and wish we had put more in. One thing we didn't realize is that regular doors cover up a sizable chunk of the wall when open such that they cover up a lot of prime real estate for art. There's at least three more we would have spec'd if possible (office, pantry, and master suite [although the latter wouldn't have worked since there isn't a receiving wall]). 

6.29.2014

simple yet articulated

For various reasons (touring Schindlers, interviews, general wondering...), I've been pondering the design of our house. Inside, the house is amazingly efficient. It's so easy to move through it. When we give a friend a tour, it's like "Whelp, there it is. That was fast, wasn't it?!?!!" On the other hand, the outside appears complex: There's a lot of articulation and volumes somewhat protruding from the house.

The other night, while thinking it over, it occurred to me why: The floor plan is organized about a perfect "L". Every room, space, or entry is accessed from this "L". The rooms that protrude from the "L" are the sizes needed to meet their purpose, with some (but really not a lot) of alignment and "squaring of space" to meet some aesthetic and construction purposes.


Pretty simple, right? This differs from what Schindler did in that he intersected volumes into each other. Here, the volumes protrude from "access corridors".

7.01.2013

where to put that toilet paper?



Where o where does my roll-of-toilet-paper go?

We told the builder that we would put our toilet paper holders up, not wanting some random dude deciding the wheres and whats of our poop paper. The only downside is that now we have to decide (and live with the consequences).

According to e-How, the standard position is on a side wall 26 inches off the floor, 8 inches in front of the front of the toilet. They also offer advice on placing the holder on the rear wall (we ain't doing that...) or on the wall in front of the toilet (yoga, anyone?).

According to random commentators on the Bathroom Forum on Garden Web, distances of 6, 21, 24, 26, 24 to 30, 29, 30  inches off the floor have been used.

According to a dude at doityourself.com, the code says 26 inches from the floor, 8 to 12 inches forward of the front of the toilet.

Someone made the point of being careful not to locate it too close to the toilet lest an elderly person (or young drunk...) decides to use it as a prop to stand. Seems like good advice. We'll have to (ahem) practice this week to see where we think it should go.

And let's not get started on the orientation of the roll in the holder (although over is clearly correct!).

6.09.2013

week 42: pavers, lights, wood floors, spiders, shade, and a condenser


A lot happened this past week, but there's still a long ways to go... With the second deadline for completion (June 7th) now past (the first was the end of May), we're now off to the 3rd deadline, June 14th. Neither of us believe that the house will be done by the end of this week, but we shall see (and rather than discuss a "more reasonable" completion date with the builder, we're happy to stick with this one. A "more reasonable" completion date would just invite procrastination. Human nature...).

pavers

As noted earlier in the week, the pavers have arrived. On Friday, they started putting them in! They're only installed in the rear entry area at present, but enough are installed to get a sense of how they look, and they look good. I was little concerned that the black was too black, but the bride thinks they look fine. Nevertheless, I dig the "digitized" appearance of the bricks. Mucho cool.

I'm little surprised the pavers are going in when (1) the horno is not yet installed (we don't want a big ole Bobcat carrying a 1,700 pound bread oven over newly installed pavers...) and (2) the tree in the middle of the patio isn't planted yet. Perhaps the builder has the timing down to the minute; nonetheless, something to discuss...





I was hoping they would understand random placement, and it appears that they do. If it was me, I would be rolling a die for each brick placement and then making a selection. But that's me!


What they look like at night.


What they look like out the living room window.

lights

As noted earlier in the week, the rest of the lights were installed. Here are some closing photos...

Master closet.

Laundry.

Powder room.

Work-out room (second upstairs bedroom).

Upstairs closet. 


the condenser in action

At first I was disturbed since the AC seemed to be running all the time. But then I remembered: It's supposed to run all the time! We were told that it would sound different than conventional condensers. Ours is pretty quiet with a slight high-pitched tone to it... Nothing irritating (you have to listen for it).



wood floor (and steps)

As noted earlier in the week, the wood floor is going in. Most of it is installed upstairs (except the trim) and they are now focusing on the stairs and landings. To some eyes this wood choice might look a little busy for a modern minimalist house, but it yucks up the cubist/neoplastic angle. And it's always good to throw in a few design curveballs to keep 'em guessing. Really liking how the blockiness of the wood floor complements the blockiness of the pavers outside.







shade

Been watching how the window shading works on the house, particularly with the large living room window. The photo below is about noonish where the living room is now completely in the shade. The architects designed the windows and eaves here to allow sun to spill inside in the morning and then be shaded during the more brutal afternoon and evening hours.




at least someone's moved in

Looks like she wants to start a family...


punch list

black = builder
orange = us
gray and crossed = done!

general items:
- touch-up paint
- touch up drywall
    - various locations
    - tops of doorways
- polish/finish concrete floor
- clean windows
- seal sills
- door hardware
    - knobs
    - doorstops
- pocket door hardware
- wood floor (partial)
- general clean-up!

master bedroom:
- art can (partial)
- seal outside door
- outside door hardware
- plugs in bedside tables

master closet:
- light
- hanger poles (partial)

master bath:
- faucets
- toilet
- tub
- shower faucet
- tub spout
- tub faucet
- plumbing connects
- mirror
- vanity lights
- above tub light cover
- drawer plug
- cab adjusts
- switch cover in toilet room
- touch up tile trim

master hall:
- thermostat

buds and suds:
- faucet
- LEDs
- backsplash
- plug cover
- counter plug electric
- light
- cab adjusts
- drawer interference with sill (bumper on sill?)
- plumbing connects

rear entry (hee hee!):
- CO detector
- art can (partial)
- level door?
- thermostat

pantry:
- hot water control
- cable/data hookups

kitchen:
- wood for peninsula
- reinstall drawers
- back splash (partial)
- cooktop electric
- cooktop gas
- fridge
- oven/microwave
- dishwasher
- LEDs
- cab adjusts
- sink faucet
- potfiller
- seal countertop edges
- hood
- hood top cap
- plumbing connects

dining:
- art cans (partial)
- paint pillars
- crystal

living:
- speakers
- art can (partial)
- LEDs
- touch up cabs
- cab pulls
- seal upper windows to wood?
- floor plugs

entry:
- light switch covers
- door bell chime
- door knob
- door bell working

coat closet:
- pole

powder:
- sink
- light
- mirror
- toilet
- toilet buttons
- plumbing connects

office: (done!)

stairwell:
- missing plug?
- treads (partial)
- hand rail

romeo landing and hall:
- railing (partial)
- floor plug
- thermostat
- gas to furnace
- ceiling switch covers
- cans
- pendant lights (partial)
- switch cover

guest bed:
- closet pole
- closet doors
- closet door hardware

guest bath:
- faucet
- plumbing connects
- mirror
- light
- tub faucet
- can light
- shower rod
- toilet

work out room:
- ERV cover
- closet bars
- light
- closet light

garage:
- garage door
- entry door paint?
- entry door hardware
- garage door opener
- stain floor?
- switch cover
- lights
- faucet
- back light

outside:
- faucet by master
- plug by master
- cable
- plug by condenser
- water heater
- wiring to stage  (partial)
- wiring to hot tub  (partial)
- gutters
- gas meter
- gas connection
- finish out sewer clean-out under cantilever
- wire to outdoor light on front wall
- window bottom trim at front
- window bottom trim at back
- entry plug
- doorbell
- seal limestone to door at front entry
- roof over limestone/bookshelf bump-out
- carport faucet
- paint eyebrows
- seal to cypress?
- clean roof
- holes for outside speakers
- install outside speakers
- house numbers
- mailbox

landscaping:
- north side fence Sol
- north side fancy fence (partial)

- gate
- south side fence Sol
- south side fancy fence (partial)
- rear fence (partial)
- white gravel in back  (partial)
- mulch in back
- pavers (partial)
- grasscrete
- black gravel in back
- black gravel in front
- mulch in front
- feather grass
- trees in front
- trees in patio
- tree on south side
- front walls
- horno base
- place horno




stuff we'll address later on our own:
- built-in shelves in the master bath
- gate beside the garage and property line (to hide trash)
- built-in shelves in the guest bath
- built-in desktop in the guest bedroom
- in-shelf shelves in the kitchen
- cat door
- stage
- planters
- garden
- shorter drop pole for the ceiling fan in the office
- upgrade plugs and switches
- upgrade outdoor plug covers
- upgrade outdoor spigots
- cabinets in pantry
- glass shelves for buds-n-suds
- wood for shelf in living room window
- plug cover for living room
- front agaves
- hedges
- rainwater tank
- solar
- wine fridge
- window treatments
- security
- clothes line

3.31.2013

what we should for wood (floors and sills)

Getting close to having to choose wood for the wood floors on the stairs and second floor. Probably ideally we would choose cypress for the floors to match the wood elsewhere in the house. However, I don't think cypress is that great a wood for floors since it's kinda soft.

So the wood we're really lusting after is hickory. It looks very neoplastic (and we dig neoplastic):


According to the Lumber Liquidators, those liquidators of lumber, hickory is the hardest North American wood. That sounds like it would be good for floors. Now hickory ain't no Australian Buloke with a janka of 5,060, but it comes in at a respectable 1,820 (white oak comes in at 1,360 calling into question the claim hickory is "North America's hardest wood").

We also need to chose wood for the window sills. The builder says that it's unusual for a modern house to have window sills spec'd for it. Usually windows in modern houses have drywall returns; however, our architects have specified unpainted wood for the sills. The architects originally spec'd ipe, a super dense wood (janka = 3,684) that would be great for sills, especially if some yahoo sets their beer on one. However, ipe is quite dark, and we prefer lighter wood, especially since the installed cypress is lighter in tone. The builder was a little concerned about mixing too many types of wood (we were concerned too), so the architects suggested oak stained such that it evokes the other wood. We're cool with that.

Speaking of window sills, the question came up on how them sills needed to look. There are several options.

The aforementioned drywall return:

(image from here)

The Mies-van-der-Rohe-rolling-in-his-grave sill:

(image from here)

The you-got-a-real-purdy-mouth sill:

(image from here)

The stick-out-a-wee-bit-on-the-sides sill:

(image from here)

And then what we will be doing: The sticking-straight-out-,-dude! sill:

(image from here [German; how appropriate!])

Nice and clean (and neoplastic to boot!). Rietveld approved, we reckon. We likes.

Why fret about the sill? They can be important features for certain occupants...

(image from here)





1.27.2013

week 23: punching and sealing

Not a lot happened over the past week except continued punching out of the MEP (mechanical-electrical-plumbing) and a start to the sealing, a pre-cursor to insulation. The architect and builder had a hoe-down at the house over trim, and work continues on landscape planning (subject of a later post).

hunching and punching

The electrical, mechanical, and framing subs have been out to the house to iron out the last few details before insulation goes in and drywall goes up. The changes at the house are subtle ("Wait a minute: That wasn't here last week!"), but they are there. In preparation for the insulation, we did a little vacuuming and blowing in the outer walls to clean 'em up. Not convinced the sub would do that...

That can to the back got installed. It's to light up art on the wall in the master bedroom. 

Finally got the third thermostat installed!

The city inspectors wanted a header over this opening to the ERV (energy recovery ventilator). They got it. 

Three of these were added by the HVAC sub. They will provide access to the zone controllers.

Also done, but not shown, is the addition of a 240 line to the garage for a future electric car (part of the original bid set but not installed until now [glad I noticed that last weekend!]) and a finish-out of the roof penetration in the laundry. There are still a few punch-outs to address, but we're down to the dregs. Even the Columbo "Just one more thing..." syndrome has dried up. 

sealing

The insulation sub has been on-site and has started sealing around windows, in corners and seams, and in penetrations. In large part it's to seal the house from air penetration, but it's also to delay the spread of fire in the house if there's ever (let's hope not) a fire.

Foam and Fill Fireblock

Filled in the header holes for the old location of the electrical service.

Filling between the boards (guess the ladder wasn't tall enough?)

Foam sculpture. Looks like Circus Peanuts. Doesn't taste like Circus Peanuts.

fit and trim

The builder and sub haven't done trim with the look we want to achieve, so this is fraught with danger for all involved. Ideally, this is what we're looking for:


This detail, at least how it's done by Build LLC, involves first installing z-metal that holds the drywall, then installing the drywall, and then installing the baseboard. The builder is concerned that this allows little to no room for error and that the risk of having a gap of varying height is high (and that would not be good). There are also cost considerations. That z-metal is 'spensive. Although we have a healthy line budget to deal with this detail, it still may not be enough.

After hearing the builder's concerns, the architect has proposed that the baseboard be installed first but with a quarter-inch notch cut at the very top of the board (see below). Then the drywall would be installed to set on top of the board. The builder seems happier with this bottom-up approach, so he and the sub are going to install a mock-up to see how it works and looks. It won't be as deep of a reveal as shown above (3/8 inches tall, half an inch deep), but it will still be a single plane detail that perhaps looks even more refined.

Looking forward to checking out the mock-up.

Accidentally drawn to scale.