11.15.2025

the pearly gates are made of concrete: the beautiful brutalism of förderer's church in hérémence, switzerland

 

The Saint-Nicolas Church by Walter Maria Förderer in Hérémence, Switzerland is peak ecclesiastical concrete. The locale, the scale, the cubism, the detail, and the sheer mass is delightfully daunting and awe inspiring. Built between 1968 and 1971, this ceremony of cement replaced an older church damaged by the 1946 earthquake. This replacement is so solid it could withstand both an earthquake and judgment day.

Built into the hillside, the sanctuary becomes part of the mountain itself. And, in a way, it is, having been built with locally sourced concrete and wood, the latter adding hearthy warmth to the interior and providing the board-forms on the interior and interior. The light grey of the concrete evokes the snow, in the distance when we visited but one with the church in the winter.

The complex of concrete dominates this town of 1,500, but in a serene way. As it so happens, there are 1,500 seats in the church. Gloriously, the church was open for viewing and walking nearly every spot. Perhaps the gates aren't pearly after all; maybe they are made of concrete.











































11.02.2025

racing through the Lingotta in Torino, Italy

 

 On the way back to Switzerland from Nice, we darted across Italy for the Alps. With Torin in our path (around lunchtime!), we stopped in to gawk at the famous Lingotta, the early Modernist auto factory with a race track on its roof!

Designed by Giacomo Matté-Trucco and built between 1916 and 1923 for Fiat, raw materials entered at the bottom of the factory and then spiraled up each floor of the five stories before emerging on the roof for a test drive on a banked 1.5-km race track before rolling down to the street for delivery. Le Corbusier called it "one of the most impressive sights in industry." The rooftop test track features briefly in the getaway sequence in the film The Italian Job (1969). 

The factory closed in 1982, and Renzo Piano was selected to repurpose the space into a mall and office space. Today, you can (as we did) stroll up the spiral ramp to the roof and walk the track and enjoy the park.  








































on the factory line in 1939...